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Its current popularity was born of necessity during the Second World War, when Thailand was suffering an acute rice shortage as national resources came under strain during the war in the Pacific.
In the absence of this cornerstone of the nation’s cuisine, the Thai government encouraged citizens to adopt rice noodles instead.
It's also scientifically proven to satisfy the taste buds: a dish salty, sweet, sour, bitter and spicy all at once.
The dish’s origins are uncertain – some believe it was introduced by Chinese traders during the heyday of the Ayutthaya Kingdom (1351-1767), others that it was imported from Vietnam as a relative of pho noodle soup.